Bourbon Street in New Orleans. © Karen Struthers

A day in the Big Easy should always start with a visit to the Café du Monde. The tables are squeezed in throughout the outdoor patio and are able to seat three, close friends. The white, Formica tabletops are always slightly sticky with the residue of sugar, even after a cleaning. Order the coffee and doughnuts once you find a free table. It will take no time and payment is needed upfront with cash being best. The coffee is chicory and made half coffee and half milk and the plate of doughnuts, well nothing can compare to the goodness piled high with powered sugar. Take this time to book a ticket for the evening ghost tour that starts at St. Philips Cathedral, usually starting around 9:30 in the evening. After this taste of a French Quarter original, take a stroll through the Quarter along the winding side streets, making your way to Decatur. Once on Decatur, around the 400 block, check out The Cigar Factory. Walking through the doors, you are greeted by a giant Indian statue with a row of cigar rollers to the right. They have a small counter where about 3 or 4 of them sit, cigars rolling in their mouths as they pound and roll the tobacco into the familiar shapes. Behind them are the presses, priming the cigars for their time in the humidor room. They are always willing to answer any questions so don’t hesitate to ask the manager for a tour. On your way back towards the center of the Quarter, tourist shops line both sides of the street, but look around for what you want. Postcards that are $1.50 might be just $0.50 down a shop or two. Once back in the Quarter, look for a small café that offers some of the local cuisine, especially the muffaletta. You won’t be disappointed. Take an expresso and make your way slowly to the Café du Monde once more. There is a small area next to the café, perfect for the hundreds of street performers that wander the city and most of them are worth the 30 minute to sit in the sun and watch. Also, during the days wandering take advantage of any open houses for a close take on the French Quarter architecture.

There is an amazing seafood restaurant called Acme Oyster House on Iberville St., but be prepared for a wait. Should you be hungrier than an hour wait, ask a local. The local hotspots will be safer and will deliver the quality of food promised. As the night grows long make your way back to St Philips Cathedral and meander the square, possibly question a physic behind a card table as you wait for the 9:30 hour to approach. The tour is fantastic and the large group that begins to gather will be broken up into smaller, more manageable groups. The guides are extremely well informed and truly love the city. The ghosts seem more tangible as you walk past the darkened windows and you can almost see the curtains move, should you straggle behind the others. After the tour, well, Bourbon Street is an option since the street is famed as never turning out their lights. There is always energy and something happening, no matter the hour. Keep your things close and stay with large groups of people and no wandering should you go that route. While I would not recommend it personally, it is a part of New Orleans culture and the birthplace of the Hurricane. One little drink couldn’t hurt. Laissez les bons temps rouler!